麦昆与我

• 豆瓣评分：8.7
• 片长：
• 导演：Louise Osmond
• 年代：
• 地区：英国
• 类型：纪录片 / 传记
• 语言：英语
• 编剧：
• 影片别名：
• 更新时间：2018-10-01
• 上映：
• 主演：Detmar Blow

主演：Detmar Blow导演：Louise Osmond语言：英语 地区: 英国 编剧：类型：纪录片 / 传记上映时间： 别名：用户标签：纪录片,时尚,AlexanderMcQueen,英国,Fashion,传记,纪实,Documentary片长：imdb编号：tt1874620Alexander McQueen had the kind of fashion genius that only comes around once in a generation. He reinvented the catwalk and created clothes that shocked and thrilled his audience. 　　This dramatic and elegantly shot film tells McQueen's story, by examining critical relationships - most significantly with the eccentric stylist Isabella Blow, who was credited with discovering McQueen and making his meteoric rise to the pinnacle of world fashion possible. McQueen and I includes rare footage of McQueen, and unseen interviews with the woman who shared his ambitions and inspiration. 　　McQueen's designs were beautiful, savage and revolutionary, erupting from his frenetic imagination. They catapulted him from tough beginnings in the East End to becoming the darling of the catwalks the world over. 　　From his first graduation show, the hard-up McQueen found a muse and patron in Blow, an exotic aristocrat with a keen eye for talent who would embark upon a fierce campaign to propel the fledgling designer to the forefront of fashion and for his work to gain the recognition it deserved. 　　To Isabella, McQueen was the genius 'who makes clothes fly'. The tempestuous connection between them was of two outsiders attracted by each other's exuberance and rebellious spirit. 　　His striking collections and explosive shows quickly earned him a reputation for controversy and he shocked the fashion world. McQueen challenged every convention: with 'bumster' trousers and lunatic asylum shows, with car robots on the catwalk and Kate Moss as a hologram. 　　Behind the creative drive of both McQueen and Isabella Blow was a darkness that couldn't be kept in check and that McQueen shielded from the public. In 2007, after repeated attempts, Isabella took her own life. One of McQueen's greatest shows was a memorial to her. Three years later and four months after his latest triumph in Paris - his best show yet according to critics - McQueen tragically echoed Isabella when he committed suicide in February 2010. 　　The film-makers for McQueen and I interview friends, models and journalists, as well as his brother and his ex-boyfriend, to discover what McQueen was really like away from the limelight, the pressure that came with his success and how he changed through the rollercoaster years.《麦昆与我电影网友评论》1）McQueen和David Bowie一样，自带一种骄傲而自我的temperament，同时对自己的领域极度认真，极度努力，让周围的人忍不住仰视他在做的一切，可他自己并不享受这种仰视。2）看过了他承受的痛苦和他的阴暗面之后，很难轻轻松松说出赞美之词。他创造的一切，正在榨干他的精气神，以及他活下去的热情。3）素材之间的拼接和过度有点生硬，不够流畅，不如17年上映的另一部纪录片McQueen来得舒服。比起展出和书，多穿插了很多T台视频（虽然听起来很废话。。。更能get到当年观众的惊吓与经验。他和Isabella看起来都很敏感脆弱的样子，能找到这样的soulmate也算幸运吧。不过说起来gay和女性都算minority，一个事业有成一个被杂志炒鱿鱼，总觉得为Isabella可惜从来没有看fashiondocumentary看到这么难过，或许是因为片中的男女主角都亲手结束了自己的生命。再想重温mcqueen和philipetreacy为discover他们的多年好友izzy合作的show。太有个性的人总是会在现实之中被磨的遍体鳞伤。甭管他的生活有多风光。伦敦东区的穷小子Lee，从裁缝学徒到英伦最成功的天才设计师，他的每个系列都能看到其内心的影子：自负、怪异、敏感、边缘。与其说他是死于重压，我宁愿相信他是被孤独压垮，当伯乐和母亲相继去世，生命已无可留恋。他选择了极为残酷和戏剧化的方式：在衣橱上吊，将死亡表演成最后一场艺术。天才……即便作为门外汉也可以非常轻易地从这纪录片获得这结论。穿插的时装秀太震撼了（虽然此前已看过一些相关图片），极具颠覆创造的先锋艺术性和戏剧性强烈到非专业人士亦可感受那种奇异却充满生命力的美。那些时尚行业从业人员看过McQueen的秀再去看其他的不会觉得了无生趣么…麦昆不仅仅是服装设计师了，他就是艺术家。比同期的那几位高太多了。我的见识有限，觉得他的设计和秀的表现力上，都强于比他年长的还健在的Armani, Karl Legerfeld, Valentino。他跟Chanel, 纪梵希，迪奥同列都丝毫不逊色的。看到了一个时尚行业有血有肉的人。其实我们都是平凡人。Legend and depression. 你知道我有多努力吗？你们总是在judge。But do you really care, do you really understand?这部传记片其实拍的很有门槛。对Mcqueen的认识，最好是能了解80-90年代的整个时装轮廓和表达上的递进与铰链。方才懂得为什么留下那么多篇章是给Isa的。一个好伯乐，一个鬼才，两段被时装产业过度膨胀发展期所裹挟的悲剧。McQueen的show总是惊艳又抑郁。连葬礼都像一场McQueen风格的fashion show。纪念Blow小姐的那场太感人。天堂里没有那么多的束缚和critique。Rest in peace.看的我都快哭了，里面记录了很完整的秀场资料（包括毕业秀，Givenchy，个人时装线，除去绝唱那场内部秀），从Lee的家人访到朋友，包括御用模特，Blow小姐，前男友等等……想起那句：那个时期的设计师精神上非常Fucked Up…PS加利亚诺居然还活着，MarcJacobs现在摇摇欲坠，真正的高人还是马吉拉、Helmut Lang，说退出就退出麦昆基本上算是把drama custom, performance art等文化成功商业化的第一人／看他买的成衣和配饰其实和catwalk上的没什么关系又一部生肉 看到后面眼泪就忍不住掉下来 you can’t stop, next clothes,next collection.....